“We’re going to the Maldives,”
*Face of disbelief* “Wow that’s expensive and off the backpacker route!”
Yep it is but we’re going! Of course we had our own questions and worries…could we do the Maldives justice on a budget? Could we even afford a night there? Would it be the same if we didn’t stay in a 5* resort?
So a bit of background info:
We’re 3 girls from Ireland (Sinead), England (Me- Mim) and America (Nicole) who met in Thailand where we were teaching English together in a Primary school. Before we met, we’d all planned to travel after teaching so as we discussed these plans, more and more ideas were added and suddenly we were planning to met in Kuala Lumpur a month and a half after finishing our term to head to the Maldives!
We are just 3 ordinary girls having the most extraordinary holiday!! Read below for our adventures over the next 10 days as well as the costs of doing it…Yes the Maldives isn’t a backpacking destination but it isn’t just a pipe dream…We’re here and you could be too!
Flight day
We were coming from Cambodia so we took a flight from Siem Reap – Kuala Lumpur (2 hours – $90)
We then waited for the day in the airport until our evening flight to Male the capital of the Maldives ( Flight time – 4 hours – $76.50)
We arrived at the airport at 9.30pm and off we went to see if we could find a taxi. After walking past the numerous resort stands, it became apparent there were no taxi ranks. We were staying in Hulhumale rather than Male so we walked past the ferry port and ended up at the bus stop, waiting for a local bus into the town. How we stood out with our bags but it felt exciting to be going into the city using the public transport rather than by a resort pickup!
After about 20 minutes, a bus arrived but we were not as ready or as quick as the locals and so by the time we got to the doors it was full! Time to wait for the next one.
Another 30 minutes past and this time we were prepared and on we traipsed. “Stop 5 please,” we asked as we’d looked it up on the map. “We only stop twice! ” was the reply. Okay, stop 2 it is! We didn’t know where that would drop us but it was an adventure so off we went. And the bus ticket – 20 Maldivian Ruffyaa (just $1.10)
When we stopped, we managed to find our bearings by heading towards the sea about 10 minutes we arrived at our hotel (Fern Botique Hotel). We definitely got a look of surprise when we entered the hotel with all our bags (not the usual crowd) but soon we were checking in, receiving a welcome drink and dumping our bags in our room – our Maldives adventure had truly begun!
3 in a room was a little tight but we were given a proper 3rd single bed on the floor and having control of the air con and fan, our own bathroom and even a hair dryer was amazing – after weeks in hostels, it’s the small things! We were exhausted so soon were sleeping soundly in a super comfy bed!
Day 1 Hulamale
Despite being tired, we woke early around 6am which meant we caught the sunrise and wow what a sunrise! Just beautiful! What a way to start the holiday.
After a bit more sleep, we got up and enjoyed our free breakfast at the hotel. It was an interesting mix of curry, traditional Maldivian food as well as baked beans and sausages with toast. We filled up and then we were off to find the bikini beach.
*The Maldives is a Muslim country so unless you’re on the designated beaches or resorts, you need shoulders and knees covered. At first we were a little worried about this but it was easy in the end to make sure we were covered and it’s just about being sensitive to the culture you are in.*
About 15 minutes from the hotel we found the beach which is for tourists only and even had a guard who drove up and down on his motorbike and checked up on us throughout the day.
So we read, dipped in the sea and sun bathed. It was hot, had very few people on it and was a great start. All was well until we began to realise that we were all burning even with suncream on so it was time to find shelter, food and water.
This proved a little harder as the side of the island where we were had a lot of construction happening and very few shops. Eventually we found a cafe and a shop for water. We stood out a mile as the only 3 foreigners in the area but the people were friendly and lots said hello.
After lunch, it was nearly 3pm, we began our journey back with as quick stop at a cake shop! We also found a booth selling day trips so decided we’d do an excursion the next day which was very exciting.
We relaxed at the hotel and tended to our very red bodies before heading to the roof to see the sunset! It was spectacular even though we were on the opposite side of the island from it. Then we headed downstairs and onto the beach for dinner with the sea just metres away! A great end to the first day!
Costs day 1
Breakfast – free
Lunch – $5
Dinner $5
Total day 1 – $10
Day 2 Hulhumale
Unfortunately, today we woke to rain…not really what we wanted in paradise and we’d booked a boat trip all day..what to do? We decided we’d still go for it and hoped for the best.
We were taken in a car to the ferry port and greeted by our guide Issa_by who told us that it would just be the 3 of us on the boat for the trip and we would just be dropping a family off at one of the resorts on the way! A private boat – YES we’ll take that!
As we began to drive out of the bay, the rain stopped and off we went out into the crystal blue ocean. After about 40 minutes, we arrived at Paradise resort to drop off the family who would be spending the fay enjoying the resort’s facilities, beach and pool.
*Resorts can cost anywhere from a few hundred to several thousands of pounds a night! But you can go as as a day guest to enjoy the facilities for around $150 – some with just buffet lunch, some all inclusive*
Then we were off to the sandbank. The sun came out and as we cruised along at the front of the boat taking in the views, a huge pod of dolphins suddenly appeared! They were jumping, diving and swimming next to the boat – it was incredible!
After watching them in awe for a while, we continued to the sandbank only to find it a little submerged but in we jumped anyway! What a feeling to be stood in knee height turquoise blue water in the middle of the ocean!
Then it was on to Snorkeling. We geared up and soon were leaping into the water and wow what an experience.
I have never swum in such clear water before. Instantly, we were hit with the wonder of the ocean. Everywhere we looked there were fish and just 10 minutes in, we spotted an eel, then a minute later white and black tipped sharks came into view!! The array of fish was breathtaking and just as we thought it couldn’t get better two eagle rays came out of the depths into view and even a sea turtle swam past! It was just magical!
After a good hour or so, we headed back to the boat with huge smiles on our faces!
We then drove to a local island called Himmafushi where we had a lunch of chicken fried rice and visited a little stop to the souvenir shop.
Back on the boat, we journeyed on past other resort islands and bungalows over the sea to the 2nd snorkel area – sting ray point. In we jumped and within minutes were face to face with numerous sting rays! The fish factory just next to the point, throws left over tuna carcasses back into the water which attracts and feeds the rays and fish in the area. Unfortunately, they had also pumped in some other food for the fish so it was a little murky but still amazing to see so many rays in one place!
Finally, we got out of the water and began the journey home but not before more dolphin spotting!
All in all, the day was just fantastic and to see so much wildlife in one place was incredible.
We were exhausted by the time we got back and the rain began again whilst we were changing so dinner was taken downstairs inside the hotel.
Day 2 costs
Breakfast – free
Lunch – included on trip
Dinner – $6
Souvenirs – $4
Excursion $75
Total Day 2 = $85
Day 3 Hulhumale – Gulhi
We enjoyed our final breakfast at the hotel before heading out to find a post office for our post cards. We walked the opposite direction from the tourist beach and found a much more lively hub of shops, cafes and people going about their days. This was the centre of Hulhumale and if we’d had more time, we would have explored here further.
But soon it was time to check out and pay.
*All hotels have additional fees on top of the room rate. Including 12% VAT, environmental fees of $3 per person per person night, 10% Service charge and $4 per person per stay for a transfer fee – make sure to add these to the room costs before coming so it is not a surprise*
We knew this beforehand so had tried to budget for it. In total we paid $80 each for 3 nights at the ‘Fern Boquete Hotel’ – not too bad really!
We then grabbed a taxi (the boot not closing because of our bags) and headed to the ferry port. The ferry to Male leaves every 15 minutes so we didn’t wait long before we were boarding. The ticket cost just 5.5 MR or 36 cents and the journey was about 20 minutes. Male is the capital and a lot busier then Hulhumale. We grabbed another taxi there and headed to the Villingulhi ferry terminal passing lots of motorbikes ( which reminded me of Thailand) and passing through very narrow lanes. When we arrived we got our ticket to Gulhi for just 22 MR ($1.40). Our ferry was due to leave arrived 3pm so we had time to walk around a bit and grab some food.
Luckily for us, a man asked if we were heading to Gulhi around 2.40pm and signaled the boat in front of us which had begun boarding 10 minutes before was ours. We hadn’t realised even when others began to board as we’d heard that it was going to Maafushi which is the stop after Gulhi -woops!
On we struggled with out ridiculous bags, much to the amusement of those on the boat and settled in for the 80 minute journey.
Of course, I had a nap whilst the others grabbed selfies with the locals!
Finally, we arrived and were greeted by the Yann ( a hotel clerk from ‘Tropic Tree Hotel’) who placed our bags on a cart and led us to the hotel. It was a wonderful welcome with drinks and an information briefing about the island.
We also met another couple from Borneo and together decided we’d head out the next day on a snorkel and sandbank trip.
After dropping off our bags in our deluxe triple room, we headed out to explore.
*Gulhi has around 90 dwelling and about 300 people living on the island.*
As we walked, we were greeted by the locals (everyone was so friendly and just so chilled – it was great!) and within 5 minutes we found the bikini beach. The water against the sky was incredible and soon we were in the water as the sun began to set.
Finally, we headed back to the hotel where the dining area was set up for us and enjoyed our first dinner on this amazing island.
Day 3 costs
Breakfast – free
Lunch – 72 RM – $4.80
Dinner – $16
Taxi to the ferry – 12 RM each – $1
Ferry to Male – 5.5RM – 36 cents
Taxi on Male – 50 RM $3.40
Ferry to Gulhi – 22 RM – $1.30
Total day 3 = $26.86
Day 4 Gulhi
We woke early and headed down for breakfast. Tea and coffee was offered immediately then the fruit came out and juice. We were then able to order anything off an extensive menu including cheese omelettes, toast and we even shared some pancakes with heaps of Nutella – delicious!
After our breakfast, we headed out for our snorkel trip and climbed aboard a small speed boat (owned by the brother of the hotel clerk). Off we sped through the waves – an exhilarating experience.
Then out of the blue, we spotted the yellow sand and crystal waters of the sandbank! The captain expertly maneuvered the boat through the shallow water and then out we jumped for sandbank photos shoot no.2!
After a while, we headed off to the snorkel point and again were awestruck by the array of fish and corals. We went to 3 sights in total including the reef just off of Gulhi!
It felt like it has been a whole day and it had only been 4 hours – we had the rest of the day for more activities!
We headed straight to the bikini beach and enjoyed relaxing in the free sun loungers and taking dips in the water.
We had lunch at the restaurant on the beach which was really well priced and just the perfect location for spending as much time as possible on the beach.
On the beach there was one water sports shop offering jet skis, wake boarding , kayaking and more. They also had an inflatable unicorn float which of course I wanted a go on! Well. ..it looks easier than it is to get on! But we entertained the beach!
Eventually, we headed back to the the hotel for showers and dinner.
As we had had a bit of time before dinner, we watched the sunset from the roof terrace as well as the other activities around the island: football, volleyball and people just hanging out on the various hanging chairs around the island. Sinead and I decided to go for a walk and ended up being invited into into a wedding party by some of the locals! They pilled food on our plates and brought over all 3 drink options of water, chocolate milk and ice tea! We sat and chatted with the family and friends of the bride and groom, many who live in their capital male, about life on the islands. They were incredibly welcoming and again just so relaxed about everything.
Finally, we headed back for dinner where we received a complimentary fruit smoothie just because it was our last night!
Another amazing day in paradise.
Day 4 costs
Breakfast – free
Lunch – $6
Dinner – $6
Snorkel trip -$30
Total -$42
Day 5 Gulhi – Maafushi
Today we were heading for Maafushi island but not until 4.20pm when the ferry arrived (the same on the we got from Male to Gulhi) so we had the whole day to relax and enjoy the beach. Yann said we could keep the room until we needed to leave which was amazing as we could enjoy the day and have time to shower and sort our bags before we left.
We headed to the beach equipped with oars for kayaking. (Tropic Tree have their own kayak which they let let us use for free!)
We swam and kayaked around the reef taking in the incredible blues of the water and the vast amounts of fish.
I only had one incident in the water…
I’d been told in Thailand about giant or Titan Trigger fish being quite aggressive during mating season and during my dives in Thailand I’d been quite wary of them. Well they are everywhere in the Maldives but usually far enough away not to be a bother – I keep a distance when I spot them anyway! So when I was snorkeling the water was really shallow which was okay but you are close to a lot! I spotted a triggerfish on my right and immediately turned my back on it to swim away. That’s when I felt a tug on my fin and when I looked back the trigger was definitely staring right at me! I freaked out and swam as fast as I could away! Glad I wasn’t diving as my breathing was all over the place!! Whether it did bite my fin, I won’t know but they still scare me and are the main hazard I look for in the sea – never mind the sharks and rays!
After pushing our time in the water to the absolute limit, we headed back to the hotel and had a quick lunch at a local restaurant. Of course, we were ready in good time and waiting at the desk to checkout earlier then needed (we hadn’t quite got into the relaxed chilled way of life of the Maldivians yet). After 10 minutes, Yann strolled in super chilled and told us just to relax we had ages and he was coming to the ferry anyway as new guests were arriving!
We paid for our stay -$80 each for the room +$30 for snorkeling. When we went to pay for our meals, Yann informed us our meal last night was complimentary – a treat from them! Just amazing! So we only paid for our first nights meal which was great!
Then it was time to load up the cart with our bags and head to the ferry. We even had time to relax in the hanging chairs before boarding and say goodbye to Yann and the staff which was hard as we had just had the best time!
The ferry arrived and on we got. The ticket was 22 MR ($1.42) and took about 30 minutes.
When we arrived, we were greeted by an attendant from Kuredhi Beach Inn and off we went to hotel number 3. Again we had a triple room which was even bigger than Tropic Tree and even comfier beds!
*Maafushi is a slightly larger island to Gulhi and much more tourist based. There are numerous water sports shops and several dive centers. It also has a bank and ATM.*
We headed out to explore and ended up at Maafushi Dive centre where I was able to book dives in for the next day. The girls also booked a package deal with the centre which included para-sailing, jet skis, paddle boarding or kayaking and a discovery scuba diving dive – very exciting!
We then headed for dinner and ended up at a table for 3 on the beach front! Perfect end to the day.
Day 5 – Costs
Breakfast – free
Lunch – $5
Dinner – $7
Ferry – 22 MR – $1.42
Total – $13.42
Kuredhi Hotel – two nights = $60 paid when we arrived.
Day 6 Maafushi
I was up early, having dreamt of Trigger fish all night, and headed down for breakfast. It was buffet style of local dishes and some baked beans and toast. It was an okay breakfast but nothing compared to Tropic Tree. But I filled up and headed to the dive centre.
Once I had squeezed myself into my wet suit, we headed to the boat. It was a spacious boat and there were just 9 of us diving plus several instructors. Off we went and just 20 minutes later, we were getting ready to jump.
Just like everywhere we have snorkled, the water was incredibly clear and soon we were descending to the reef. It’s hard to describe diving as it was just amazing! During this dive we saw whole schools of reef sharks, rays, a huge variety of fish and several sea turtles.
The turtles were amazing as they were just chilled out on the bottom, eating and observing! Incredible creatures!
It was quite quite a challenging dive for me as there was quite a current and it was only my 5th dive ever but completing it felt incredible!
The crew and instructors were so chilled out and just great fun to be around! Between dives, I swam a bit and joined the others jumping from from the boat – resulting in a nose full of water – but great fun!
Then it was on to the second dive site. After being a little nervous on the first dive, this one felt much more normal and I could relax and enjoy it. Currents were quite strong again but we just drifted with them taking in the views.
After the dive, it was time to head to shore for lunch accompanied by a very inquisitive cat!
Maafushi has several restaurants at reasonable prices so I was soon tucking into a chicken sandwich and chips. Then it was back to the dive centre to meet the girls and go off for the 3rd dive. They had had a fabulous morning jet skiing and para-sailing and although they were both nervous about the dive, the excitement was building and the crew all helped keep the mood light and make them feel at ease.
Nicole had never scuba dived before and Sinead had only done it once so it was great to be able to go with them and see then get kitted up in all the gear.
It was just me, an Italian guy called Nik and our instructor who were diving with the girls so after getting ready, we jumped in and off we went.
This dive was a wall reef dive! We descended around 15 metres and slowly swam along taking in all of the fish and corals. I really felt like little mermaid on this one and was just in awe of everything I could see above and below me! The first and second dives were great for the big creatures but this one was just amazing for variety!!
When we surfaced, we picked up the girls who were both beaming from the experience! They had had a great dive as well and all the nerves which had been present were gone!
Back on the boat, the instructors were in high spirits and at one point, we just heard Sinead’s laugh as she was being taken to the edge of the boat and dangled off the back! We were then all dropped in and spent the rest of the journey hanging there in fits of laughter!
Eventually we arrived back and went to the dive shop so I could get the pics off the Gopro I’d hired. Whilst we were just chilling in the shop, the boys suggested a night snorkel so we said yes and within an hour ,having not showered or eaten, we were back in the water.
None of us had snorkeled at night before and it was quite an experience. There are less fish around but we saw eels, lion fish, a bioluminous squid and an octopus! Having just a torch to show us where to go was also a bit scary but not as bad as I first thought! We snorkel for about 2 hours under the stars until eventually it was time to head back.
By this time is was 8pm and I’d done 3 dives and a snorkel in one day! Starving, we headed for food at one of the restaurants down the road along with our instructors and the Nik from the dive.
As we ate, we heard about a boat off the shore where you can go for a bit of a party and dance. So even though we were tired and unshowered, off we went! The boat was great fun and we danced the night away before returning to shore just after midnight!
It was an incredibly long and exhausting day but I was buzzing from all of the activities and experiences we had done during the day! It was another day of laughter, fun and adventure!
Costs day 6
Breakfast – free
Lunch – $7
Dinner – (paid for our guide) -$20
Diving – $40 x 3 – $120
Snorkeling – free
Boat drinks – $12
Total – $159
Day 7 Maafushi to Fulidhoo
During the planning of this trip, I had looked up all the local ferries and had made sure we were on the islands on the right days for when the ferry ran. This was quite complicated as there are next to no ferries on Fridays and others run on alternate days. Up until now all the ferry had run as planned but moving from Maafushi to Fulidhoo was the first time we hit a problem. It was monday and no ferries go to Fulidhoo on Mondays.
I had figured this out a few days before and with all the hotels, I began messaging them either by email or most by whatsapp about the best ways to get to the island and to confirm I was getting the correct ferry! Therefore, the hotel in Fulidhoo had already told me that the ferry wouldn’t be running so gave us the option of a speedboat transfer.
We had read online that speedboat transfers can range from $30-$300 per person so I was a little worried about getting the speed boat! But they said it would be $50 each and as we had no other option other than to chnage hotel bookings we agreed! Looking back now, it was a great idea as it was just the 3 of us and Sinead ended up driving the boat most of the way – wouldn’t have happened on a ferry!!
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After about 40 minutes we arrived at Fulidhoo and wow what a view to arrive at. The water was all the different blues and turquoise and the island sat in the middle of it covered in trees and very few houses could be seen.
This was quite a contrast to the other islands which were more developed and had less vegetation. The boat pulled up on the sand and we hopped out. We were then guided across the island (about 5 minutes) to the guest house.
The guest house was called ‘Le Perla’ and had 3 rooms. We had a triple bed room which was probably our most basic room but it was adequate, had aircon and comfy beds so we were all good!
Majid (our boat driver) was also the local guide to the guest house and informed us (didn’t really ask, just told us to come!) that in 20 minutes he would take us for a walk around the island.
So after dropping off our bags, off we went.
The island was even smaller than Gulhi and had only one main road through it.
There were a few restaurants and cafes and a mosque and that was about it. But the shop sold quite a bit including magnum ice creams which we all devoured in the heat of the day! Oh there was also one clinic/hospital which actually had an ambulance. Not sure how they would drive it on the island but it was there anyway (apparently the government gave every island an ambulance!)
So we walked around and saw the bikini beach on the island. There were also a few fishermen taking the suckers off octopuses they had caught and others feeding sting rays from the shore! We even saw huge schools of fish being herded towards the shore by other larger fish who would then suddenly attack! It was amazing to see!
Finally we settled at a cafe for lunch and had the option of rice of spaghetti. We chose spaghetti and after quite a while we were given huge plates of spaghetti Neapolitana and lovely cold water to drink. It was yummy and only 70 MR each ($4.53) which was great!
Once we had eaten, we headed back to the hotel but there was no rest for us. About 40 minutes later, we were off again with Majid leading us off for a snorkel around the reef! This snorkel ended up being 2 hours long which was great as we saw lots of incredible reef life including a huge sting ray but we were pretty tired from the day before. But Majid just kept pushing us onwards and encouraging us to do lots of activities!
When we got back after snorkeling, we had dinner at the hotel which was $12 each. Both the lunch and dinner at the hotel are $12 so a little more expensive then the cafe. But we had a huge bowl of chicken and rice, tuna fillets, salad, juice and fruit. As soon as we were done, Majid was back taking us on a night walk to the see the plankton. Unfortunately, the moon was a bit too bright so we couldn’t see them but we sat under the stars and enjoyed the coolness of the evening. Finally, all exhausted, we fell into bed but not before we promised we’d do a snorkling trip the next day!
Costs day 7
Breakfast – free
Lunch – $5
Dinner – $12
Ice cream and water – 47 MR $3
Speed boat to Fulidhoo – $50 each
Total cost $70
Day 8 Fulidhoo
We had arranged for breakfast at 8 and just beforehand we heard the little knock on the door saying it was ready.
We could have continental or Maldivian. The continental consisted of 3 pieces of toast, an omelette and a sausage. The Maldivain option was tuna with chipattis.
It was basic but it filled us up ready for the snorkel trip. We were also joined by another couple and soon were jumping on the speed boat and heading out.
Our first stop was by a resort and at first it just looked like we were snorkeling near a dock but then when we jumped in we realised this was the feeding place of lots of nurse sharks and huge trevally! We were literally swimming within metres of the huge creatures as they just swam around and nestled on the bottom of the reef.
Eventually, we dragged ourselves away and were off to another snorkel sight.
This one just appeared in the middle of the sea and grew and grew as we explored and the underwater wildlife was again amazing! We saw a couple of turtles which were close enough to nearly touch them! And of course so many fish varieties – I’m just not good yet at remembering what they are or identifying them again in the guides! I’ll get better!
Again, we dragged ourselves away and headed off toward the sandbank. Unfortunately, it was just at this point as we passed the rows of luxury bungalows of the resorts when the engine died! The rest of the journey was much slower with just one engine working but still enjoyable. There is so much to see, it’s great. Finally, we arrived at the sandbank which was the largest one we’d been to and was a long snaking band of sand. What’s crazy is that these sandbanks just appear in the middle of the ocean – one minute it’s super deep water, the next you’re touching sand!
After a another photoshoot (although this one with less energy from Nicole and I as we were just exhausted)., we returned to the boat to head back to Fulidhoo. The journey was quite a bit longer than before as the engine was still not working but eventually we were nearly to shore. That’s when we saw them…a group of dolphins in the water just meters from the island. Quickly, we put our snorkel gear on and jumped in. Well I’ve never swam so fast and hard in my life trying to catch them and just when I thought we’d lost them, I looked down and there they were swimming just below us!! So off we went again, trying to follow them and we did well. They would appear below us or next to us and it was just amazing to see them swim through the water gracefully. Having been tired already from all the activities over the last 3 days, I was now beyond exhausted so signaled to the boat to get me and soon the others were also climbing up ready to head home.
Once we were back, I passed out on my bed whilst the girls relaxed and caught up on their journals. We didn’t actually get back until 2.30 and then weren’t ready to move until 4! We’d missed lunch so just ate some biscuits and crisps to see us through. Around 5pm, we began to emerge and went to see the sunset and what was happening across the island. The evening is when the island seems to come alive and there were children playing in the sand whilst groups of women chatted and men fished. It was lovely to see.
We had dinner at 7pm again at the hotel and then guess what… Majid was back persuading (telling) us that we could go feed the string rays tonight, see a drum show and go swimming!! Although we were tired, we agreed and off we went to the shore with a bag full of fish bits ready to feed the rays.
Wow what an experience. Majid showed us how to play with the food so the rays came out of the water. It was amazing! They do this everyday so the rays aren’t too afraid of people and allowed us to touch them. One was pregnant too! Around the rays were lots of little fish who were equally inquisitive and some even nicked the fish from my hands before the rays could get it!
After feeding time, we headed to a local cafe as Majid said it was time for coffee! So in the Maldives everyone drinks coffee. Guess it the substitute for alcohol but they drink it really late into the night. Majid said he only sleeps for 3 hours a night and other Maldivians we met said they go to bed at 2/3 am and again will drink coffee into the night. I think it must be because it’s so hot in the day that not many people go outside so staying up late means they can socialise and not be melting in the heat!
So we all had a coffee..even Nicole who doesn’t even drink it! Well we couldn’t say no, just with everything else, once Majid told us we were doing it, we were doing it!
Then we heard the drums begin and headed to the islands little stage area. The show was put on for guest from a livaboard cruise but we were allowed to join them. It was a high energy show of singing and drumming and some very enthusiastic dancing from the boats chef! Luckily we had the coffee so we had some energy to join in!
Then of course, it was time to swim! Even though we were tired, we all jumped in the water and enjoyed just bobbing about under the stars. It really was magical and beautiful!
Finally, at about 11.30pm, we returned to the hotel – what a day!! Exhausted, we collapsed on our beds!
Day 8 costs
Breakfast – free
Lunch – skipped it
Icecream and water 47 MR -$2.35
Dinner $12
Snorkeling trip – $40
Total -$54.35
Day 9 Fulidhoo – Maafushi
Now, I was so tired that I slept up until 9am when we had schedule breakfast but Sinead being the one with most energy was up at 5.30am to see the sunrise! And then she went off with Majid for a morning snorkel! How she did it I don’t know but she was off until 10am!
We had planned to get the local ferry back to Maafushi at 11am but during breakfast the hotel manager came to us and told us his friends were heading to Maafushi on their speedboat and did we want a lift for just $20 each. This would reduce the journey from 1 hour 45 minutes to just 40 so we agreed and soon were packing up, checking out and heading for the boat.
Our total bill for the room was $189 each which was for the room (2 nights) , transfer to Fulidhoo ($50), dinner x 2 ($24) transfer back to Maafushi ($20) and the snorkel trip ($40).
The waves were bit stronger on the way back so the journey took nearly an hour – it would have been soo slow if we’d gone by ferry! The speedboat even had music blasting all the way and again it was just us so we were living the dream!
We arrived back in Maafushi at 11.30 and saw the delivery boats of food and water. I’ve never seen so many water bottles! It was quite incredible but also worrying as where are those bottles going after they are used??? Luckily, we haven’t seen much rubbish in the sea here but I know from traveling to Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam and seeing the pictures online, the oceans are filling up quickly with waste!
When we were leaving Fulidhoo, I’d tried to contact the next hotel through email and whatsapp and asked the hotel to ring them but hadn’t had a response so we prepared ourselves to carry our bags to the hotel. This was a great plan in theory but even after walking 2 minutes we were dripping in sweat. Thankfully, as we walked past a hut, a porter came out holding a sign for a our hotel and soon our bags were being loaded onto the cart and taken to the hotel! Phew! #princessproblems
So our final hotel was called Water Breeze. We had booked a room for 3 but as we drank our welcome drink, we saw them trying to fit a 3rd bed into the room unsuccessfully so they ended up giving us two rooms! Perfect!
After having a little rest and trying to update all our journals and blogs, we grabbed our swim stuff and headed to the dive shop – with a quick lunch stop of pizza and rice!
We arrived at the shop are were greeted by all the boys we’d made friends with before and soon were heading to the boat. This time we rode on the back of the dive truck to the boat!
We headed off and again it was just me and a couple diving whilst the girls were going to snorkel above the reef.
This dive was a ship wreck and reef dive! And it ended up just being me and the instructor Po going together whilst the other diver went a slightly different route. We went all along the ship and it was amazing to see the corals and fish who now inhabited it! We then swam along the reef wall which was full of life I saw a huge moray eel which was a bit scary and of course my nemesis the Trigger fish but there was also huge anemones and anemone fish (like Nemo) and other bright, colourful fish! Just beautiful! At times, I’d look up and see the girls swimming above us which was cool!
After 49 minutes, we surfaced and headed back to shore. Po invited me to go on a jet ski with him so, as I’ve never done it before, I jumped at the opportunity and soon was off riding across the waves! It was so much fun and we took it in turns to drive which was amazing! It was hard to judge sometimes the best route and we’d come crashing down after a huge wave resulting in a massive face full of water but it was exhilarating! Finally, we came back to shore to meet the others and headed to dinner on the beach front as the sun began to set!
Of course, the activities weren’t over yet and once the sun had set, we were back in our snorkel gear heading into the sea for another night snorkel. We’re definitely getting braver as we all swam straight in and were guiding ourselves! Again we saw lots of a lion fish, an eel, an octopus and even a little shark! We also swam to the edge of the reef where the water was darker and turned the torches off as then we could see the plankton in the water! As you waved your hands around, little flashes of blue would appear – so cool!
After about an hour, we headed back to the dive shop, gathered our stuff and headed to our hotel! Another full day in the Maldives!!
Day 9 costs
Breakfast – free
Lunch – $6
Dinner – $6
Dive – $40
Speed boat transfer – $20
Total – $72
Day 10 – Maafushi to Male
We awoke about 8 and were very thankful that we’d decided to just pay a bit more and get a later ferry to Male rather than get the local ferry at 7.30am! Our flight to Sri Lanka wasn’t until 10 pm so we had the whole day and from what we’d heard, Male was just a busy, crowded city so we thought we’d stay on Maafushi for the day.
Breakfast was toast with egg and sausage again, juice and watermelon but it was adequate and the staff were super friendly.
We packed up our bags and got a day bag ready before heading to the bikini beach to finally take time to just rest and read our books! But the thoughts of leaving were beginning to dawn on us and the reality of it was pretty hard!
We chilled on the beach for a while, checked out and had lunch before returning to the dive shop to pay and say goodbye! They’d been a massive part of our time in Maafushi so it was a hard goodbye!
Then we returned to the hotel to collect our bags.. well they carried them for us on a cart to the speedboat centre.
The speedboat took 45 minutes and stopped first at Male then at the airport so we didn’t even have to worry about finding a taxi and another ferry to the airport. It cost $25 but it was worth it.
Then it was time to check in to our flight and bid the Maldives goodbye – it had been just the most magical, wonderful experience of all of our lives! How would the rest of our travels weigh up?!
3 girls, 6 bags and a lifetime of memories! We love the Maldives!
How would I sum up the Maldives?
The best holiday of my life! It was adventures, fun and so much laughter! I don’t think I’ve laughed or smiled so much in a very long time!!
Who would I suggest comes to the Maldives?
Everyone! It really is the most beautiful location I’ve ever been to and a diver/snorkelers heaven! But I’d also say this is the perfect destination for a girls holiday. Being a group 3 girls, we did stand out but this meant we also made incredible friends and connections with the people we met and we experienced more. Sometimes in a couple you are in a bubble so miss opportunities but we didn’t have that. Being a 3 meant we could go off to different activities but never be alone and encouraged each other to do different activities even if we were scared. Together we worked as a team to get the pictures we had envied from Instagram and laughed everyday! We were friendly and appreciative of the amazing welcome and service we received at each hotel ( everything was amazing after the hostels) and just enjoyed the company of the locals. The Maldives is seen as once in a lifetime holiday and this was the best holiday I’ve ever had but it won’t be the last time…I’ll already planning to come back..so don’t delay, come as soon as you can as you won’t regret it!
Summary of costs – here’s what you really want to know….
Flights to the Maldives from Kuala Lumpur -$76.50 (with baggage)
Flight to Sri Lanka – $124 (with baggage)
Total accommodation costs per person – $303 or $30 per person per night (inclusive of all fees)
I paid for all accommodations in cash and came to the Maldives with $800 so taking away the accommodation, I spent about around $500 on everything else. (Excursions, food ,transport, tips)
I used my credit card only for the dives –$152 (4 in total)
So grand total for 10 days in the Maldives = $1185 or £846 or €964
So that’s approximately £85 a day – not bad when we were in the water everyday and were enjoying ourselves to the max! So what you waiting for??
How to keep it cheap and top tips?
☆Stay on local islands not resorts
☆Share the room costs – come as a group of 3!
☆Use the local ferries (check timings before booking rooms and ensure your dates match)
☆Make sure breakfast is included in the room rate
☆ Eat cheap – rice and chicken or local dishes will fill you up to get you through the day and drink water (no alcohol here anyway)
☆ Make friends with other foreigners and share excursions
☆ Make friends with the locals!
Where to go?
Every island had a unique element
Hulamale – best sunrise and sunset and amazing snorkeling with Maldives watersports but not many tourists
Gulhi – really local island. Super chilled, beautiful beach and amazing people.
Maafushi – amazing dive opportunities, amazing vibe and great locals
Fulidhoo – stunning remote location, sting rays, sharks and dolphins!
I’d suggest hopping islands. We did 4 in 10 days and had between 2/3 nights on each. This was ideal and it felt like we were here for much longer! These were all local islands and more and more guest houses are popping up all over the islands so go explore – each one will bring it’s own element and every day will be your BEST DAY EVER!